White Stocks (Fonds Blances) & Fumets

White Stocks (Fonds Blancs)

  • Clean and degorge bones.
  • Blanch and drain bones.
  • Cover bones with cold water.
  • Bring to a simmer and skim.
  • Add mirepoix and bouquet garni.
  • Simmer and skim frequently.
    • Chicken Stock: 2 hours.
    • Veal Stock: 4-6 hours.
  • Drain through fine chinois.
  • Discard solids.

Fumets

  • Cleand and degorge bones.
  • Sweat vegetables.
  • Add bones and continue to sweat.
  • Cover with cold water.
  • Add bouquet garni.
  • Simmer and skim frequently for 30 minutes.
  • Drain through fine chinois.
  • Discard solids.

White Veal Stock (Fond de Veau Blanc)

  • Blanched Veal bones.
  • Carrots.
  • Onions.
  • Leeks.
  • Celery.
  • Bouquet Garni.

White Chicken Stock (Fond de Volaille Blanc)

  • Blanched chicken bones.
  • Carrots.
  • Onions.
  • Leeks.
  • Celery.
  • Bouquet Garni.

Fish Stock (Fumet de Poisson)

  • Fish bones.
  • Onions.
  • Leeks.
  • Bouquet garni.

French Stocks (Fonds)

Fonds, or stocks, are the starting point for many sauces, it’s critical that stock quality be the absolute best possible (in flavor and color), especially when reduced.

Brown stock—made with browned beef or veal bones and classic vegetable aromatics (classically, onion, leek, carrots, and celery).

White veal stock—prepared with veal bones and classic vegetable aromatics, but the bones and vegetables are not browned.

Chicken stock—made with skin-on chicken meat, chicken bones, and classic vegetable aromatics.

Vegetable stock—typically made with classic vegetable aromatics and sometimes leftover bits of other mild vegetables, such as mushrooms.

Fumet—fish stock made with fish bones, heads, tails, and classic vegetable aromatics, except the carrots.

Court-bouillon—a quickly cooked broth prepared with classic vegetable aromatics that serves as a poaching liquid for meat or fish.

Demi-glace—any kind of stock—white or brown, typically using veal, chicken, pork, or beef—reduced down to a glaze (about 20 percent of its original volume) and later reconstituted in various sauces.

Glace de crustace—or crustacean stock, made with crustacean shells, such as shrimp, crab, lobster, or crayfish that is cooked with classic vegetable aromatics and cooked down to a glaze (about 20 percent of its original volume).

Guidelines For Stock Preparation

Guidelines for Stock Preparation 

  • Use the highest quality ingredients.
  • Trim excess fat from meat and bones.
  • Always blanch Beef and Veal bones when making White stocks.
  • Never blanch fish bones when making a fumet, wash only.
  • Begin cooking process with cold water.
  • The higher the ratio of solids to liquids, more intense the flavor.
  • Simmer stocks slowly and uncovered.
  • Never allow a stock to boil, it will become cloudy.
  • Do not stir from the bottom, it will become cloudy.
  • Skim and degrease frequently, always use a clean ladel
  • Taste throughout the cooking process.
  • Stop the cooking process when the ingredients have released their maximum flavor.
  • Stocks should be poured out carefully through a chinois.
  • Stocks should be cooled quickly in an ice bath.
  • A properly prepared stock will be bright and clear.

Stocks and Sauces Terminology

Bouquet Garni: Fresh thyme, parsley stems, bay leaf, a few peppercorns tied together in leek greens.

Deglaze ( Déglacer): To loosen sucs from the bottom of a roasting pan using liquid: water, stock, vinegar, wine or juice.

Dégorger: To soak bones to remove blood to help produce a clearer, cleaner stock.

Degrease (Dégraisser): To remove grease from the top of a stock or sauce with a ladle or metal spoon.

Mirepoix: Equal parts of onions and carrots uniformly Cut, or 50% onions, 25% carrots, 25% celery or equal parts onions, carrots and celery.

Moisten (Mouiller): To Add water to bones and aromatics to produce a stock.

Mother Sauce (Sauce Mères): Group Of basic sauces of the Classical French repertoire.

Mount, to (Monter): Swirl in butter or other emulsifying agent to enrich the flavor and texture, gives a glossy finish.

Pass (Passer): To strain or pass a stock through a chinois.

Plug (Tamponner): To dot the top of a sauce with butter to prevent the formation of a film.

Reduce (Réduir): To boil a stock or sauce until the volume is reduced.

Remoisten (Remouillage): To Add water to cooked bones to extract their maximum flavor.

Roast (Rôtir): To cook in direct, radiant heat in the dry atmosphere of a preheated oven.

Simmer (Frémir): To cook gently so bubbles just break the surface.

Skim (écumer): To remove coagulated blood and impurities from a stock through skimming them off the top with a ladle or skimmer.

Sucs: Caramelized proteins that form on the bottom of a pan as ingredients are browned.

Sweat (Suer): To cook vegetables in a small amount of fat so that the ingredients cook in their own juices without taking on any color.

Winnow (Vanner): To stir a stock or sauce, either while it is cooking or in an ice bath, to facilitate cooking or cooling.

Cooking Method: Dans un Blanc

Definition: Cooking in a water, flour, oil, lemon, salt solution for ingredients that easily discolor such as artichokes, salsify, offal and Veal.

  • 2 Quarts, 4 ounces (2 liters)
  • 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) canola oil
  • 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) fresh lemon juice
  • 3/4 ounce (21 grams) all-purpose flour
  • 1/3 ounce (10 grams) coarse salt

In this example we are cooking four artichokes or 2 pounds of salsify, offal or Veal.

Combine water, oil, lemon juice in a saucepan over medium heat.  Whisk in flour and salt.  Add ingredient to be cooked.  Over high heat bring to a boil. Lower heat slightly. Cook at low boil for 30 minutes.  Remove from heat.  Allow item to stand in liquid one hour.

Pommes Rissolées

 

Pommes Rissolées: Shaped potatoes are blanched, then sautéed and finally roasted.

  • Tourneed:
    • Cocotte: 5 x 1.5 cm (2 x 5/8 inches)
    • Chateau: 7.5 x 3 cm (3 x 1 3/16 inches)
  • Diced:
    • Parmentier: 1.5 to 1.8 cm (5/8 to 3/4 inches)
    • Vert Pres: 5 to 7 cm (3/16 to 1/4 inches)
  • Balls:
    • Olive: elongated ball
    • Noisette: round ball
    • Parisienne: small ball

Instructions 

  • Place shaped potatoes in a pan just large enough to hold them in a single layer.  Add just enough water to cover.
  • Bring to a boil.
  • Drain.  Do not shock in ice water.
  • Dry on paper towels in a single layer.
  • In a pan large enough to hold potatoes in a single layer add fat and place over medium high heat.
  • When fat is very hot, but not smoking add potatoes.
  • Raise the heat and sauté potatoes. When light brown drain off fat and set aside.
  • Preheat oven to 400 degrees when ready to serve.
  • Add butter to pan and toss to coat.
  • Place pan in oven.
  • Roast, shaking pan from time to time.
  • Remove.  Drain off excess fat.  Salt.
  • Serve immediately.

 

Glacer: Glazing Vegetables

Similar to A l’etuve, but a small amount of sugar is added.

  • Glacer à blanc: lightly glazed with butter
  • Glacer à Brun: sugar allowed to caramelize.

Instructions 

  • Cook one vegetable at a time.
  • Place vegetables in a saucepan in a single layer.  Add water as for A l’etuve, Butter, salt and a pinch of sugar.
  • Cut parchment paper to fit pan with a center hole.
  • Over high heat bring to a boil.
  • Reduce heat to a gentle simmer.
  • Simmer until all liquid has evaporated.
  • If vegetables are almost tender remove parchment to allow evaporation.
  • For Glacer à Brun allow sugar to cook until it caramelizes on vegetables, turning then a golden brown.

Vegetable Cooking: A l’etuvé

Definition: Slowly cooks raw vegetables in a covered pan with their own juices, just a touch of fat and salt. Just enough liquid, water or Stock is added to allow the vegetable to exude their own moisture.

  • Place cleaned and cut vegetables in a pan large enough to hold in a single layer.
  • Add the required liquid to come halfway up the vegetable, this may be as little as a couple of tablespoons.
  • Add the desired fat and salt.
  • Fold a piece of parchment paper into a cone by making four folds inward.  Cut off the tip.  Cut cone to fit size of pan.
  • Over high heat bring to a boil.
  • Lower heat to a simmer.
  • If water evaporates too quickly, lower temperature.
  • Cook until vegetables are tender.
  • Taste and adjust salt and pepper.
  • Serve.

Vegetable Cooking: A l’anglaise

Definition: Allows vegetable to be cooked prior to use, then reheated at time of service in a restaurant.

  • Fill large pot with water.
  • Salt to taste of seawater.
  • Over high heat bring to a rolling boil. Do not cover.
  • Add vegetable and cook until barely tender.
  • Drain well.
  • Shock in ice water. This stops the cooking and sets the color.
  • Drain well.
  • Pat dry.
  • Place in a container and cover with plastic film. Refrigerate.
  • To serve: reheat required amount in a small pan with butter and seasonings.
  • Serve immediately.

Knife Skills: Tournage

Tourner: “to turn.”  Cut vegetables into traditional faceted oval shapes.

Steps

  • Cut vegetables into pieces of equal length (troncons).
  • Cut each piece into approximate finished shape.
  • Holding with fingertips of one hand, slice off one side in a slightly curved stroke.
  • Continue to work around entire piece, slightly turning until the whole piece has been molded into an even sided barrel shape.

Different Sizes

  • Bouquetiere: 3 cm (1 3/16 inches) long
  • Cocotte: 5 cm (2 inches) long
  • Vapeur: 6 cm (2 3/8 inches) long
  • Chateau: 7.5 cm (3 inches) long
  • Fondants: 8-9 cm (3 1/8 – 3 1/2 inches) long